Many family archives hold film that is not 35 mm. Folding cameras of the 1930s to 1960s took roll film that is larger than a 35 mm frame, studios shot sheet film, and some families kept glass plates from older decades. These negatives carry a great deal of detail, and many labs will not touch them. This guide explains the common formats, how they are scanned and how to look after them.
The formats you are likely to find
- Medium format roll film (120 and 620). The film is about 6 cm wide, and each frame is 4.5, 6, 7 or 9 cm long. A square 6 x 6 cm frame is the most common in older family cameras.
- 127 film. A narrower roll film used in small folding and box cameras, with frames around 4 x 4 cm or 4 x 6 cm.
- 110 and 126 cartridges. Small cartridge film from the 1960s to the 1990s. The negatives are tiny, which makes the scan harder.
- Sheet film. Single large negatives, often 4 x 5 inches or bigger, from studios and professionals.
- Glass plates. Fragile negatives on glass, mostly from before 1930.
If you are not sure what you have, measure the width of the film, and send me a phone photo with a ruler beside it.
Why larger film scans so well
A bigger negative holds more detail for the same grain. A 6 x 6 cm frame has about four times the area of a 35 mm frame. At 2,400 DPI it makes a file of roughly 5,600 pixels on each side, which prints large without strain. That is why scanning the negative often beats scanning an old print, as the detail is still in the film.
Problems that old negatives have
- Curl. Roll film that has been wound tightly for decades keeps its curl. It has to be held flat for the whole frame to stay sharp.
- Vinegar syndrome. Acetate film that smells like vinegar is breaking down. It can shrink and warp, and it should be scanned soon.
- Silvering and mould. Damp storage can leave mirror-like patches or fungus on the film.
- Sticking. Negatives that touched each other in humid conditions can bond.
- Scratches. Dust and grit on old sleeves scratch the film base.
A safety note on very old film
Film made before the early 1950s may be cellulose nitrate, which is flammable and decays in a way that can be dangerous. If your negatives are on very old film, have a strong smell, feel sticky or have turned yellow and brittle, do not scan them yourself and do not store them in a warm place. Tell the person who will handle them before you send anything.
What a good scan of a negative includes
The scanner holds the film flat, records every frame at a suitable resolution and captures the full tonal range. Software then inverts the tones, removes the orange mask of colour negatives and corrects the colour. Dust and small scratches are cleaned where possible. For black and white film, the aim is a rich, natural range of greys rather than a harsh contrast.
How to prepare
Keep negatives in their sleeves, handle them by the edges and do not touch the picture area. Do not cut strips. Note what you have: “about 30 rolls of 120, a few 4 x 5 sheets, and a box of glass plates”. Pack them flat, with extra padding for brittle film and glass. The guide to preparing photos and film for scanning has the full checklist.
Related guides
For standard film, read the 35 mm film scanning guide. For slides, see the slide scanning guide. To post negatives safely, see how to mail old photos and film.
Ask me about your negatives
I look at every format before I quote, and I tell you honestly if I cannot scan something safely. Send a description and a phone photo of the negatives. I reply with a plan, a quote and a turnaround. You can request a scanning quote here, read about non-standard negative scanning, and call, email or message me using the details at the bottom of this page.
